On Thu, 30 May 2013 06:32:13 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
Post by Tim J.Post by Stormin Mormonto 20. Then after doing this several times, it goes back up to 100 and stays.
No refrigerant was added, or removed during this process. What might be the problem?
I agree with Clare. It sounds like the low pressure cut-off switch is
kicking in and disengaging the A/C clutch. Then when the low side
pressure rises, the clutch kicks in again.
CY: That's what I described. Now, please tell me why the compressor stopped working at all, and the pressure went up to 100 and stayed?
Clare already answered that. Can you go back out to the car and
repeat what you first posted? If so, that's de facto proof that the
computer shut it down to prevent damage.
Post by Tim J.I'd also be interested in
seeing what the high pressure side is showing during this time.
CY: I didn't tap into the high side, hate to lose that blast of refrigerant when I unhook my gage.
Please tell me you are using the newer hoses that don't vent their
contents when you disconnect them.
Post by Tim J.Get a
can of R-134a with leak detector dye and a UV light. Your local auto
parts store should have both. Begin SLOWLY adding the 134a into the
system and see if that fixes the problem.
CY: That's a thought.
And whatever you do, do NOT
flip the can upside down or else you'll be dumping liquid into the low
side.
CY: If you add with the can upright, the UV dye stays within the can. Have to invert, to get the dye to go in.
No, it doesn't. I've found many leaks using the method I described.
And if you invert a can with the system running, I cannot think of a
better way to damage the valves in the compressor. Do so at your own
risk. You've been warned.
Post by Tim J.If it does fix the problem, run the system at night and use the
UV light to look for any escaped leak detector dye. Pay special
attention to all connections and the compressor, but don't overlook
the entire condenser coil and the service ports. I'll bet you have a
small leak somewhere.
CY: And, so why did the compressor stop working at the end, and totally stop after the low side came up to 100 PSI, which should have satisfied the low pressure cutout?
See above, and when the compressor shut down, the system stabilized.
If you had hooked up the gauge to the high side while the compressor
was off, you would have probably noticed the high side pressure was at
or near 100, too. It's the difference in pressures between the high
and low side that causes the system to work. You probably didn't give
the computer time to reset so the clutch would engage again.
I do not mean to offend, but if you cannot grasp the concepts we've
laid out here, take it to a professional because you have no business
working on a closed A/C system.